| The Lionhead seemed to have been more popular than the long coated dwarf, and so breeders carried on this trend in breeding them intentionally, and so came what we know today as the Lionhead rabbit. It eventually found its way to England and here this still relatively new breed, was taken on by many dedicated breeders, who are now making this one of the most popular new breeds around. The Lionhead makes a lovely pet as well as a show rabbit, and is very well tempered & friendly, enjoying plenty of attention and fuss, but not requiring a massive amount of grooming, as the mane does not tend to matt up nearly as much as normal long hair in a rabbit. The coats of the Lionhead should be short and roll back with little or no long hair on the flanks. short well furred ears, but not at all furnished (i.e. no long hair on the ears). The Mane should be long and pronounced as this is the most important part, and should NOT be short and wool like. The body and type short and cobby, weight is around 3Lb up to 3Lb.12 ounces. The doe's are excellent mothers and will rear large litters, making wonderful nests by pulling out lots of belly fur as well as in some cases, some of their beautiful mane, it also seems that a does mane will lessen in breeding and moulting, and this may take some time to grow back, so patience is needed. Some does will lose their manes all together when they reach adult age, if possible, it is better to breed from does who keep full manes as they will then me more likely to pass this trait onto their own off spring. Although Real 'Lionesses' are not maned, the Lionhead rabbit should have a mane, although it is often not as profuse as the bucks. Breading Lionheads: With Lionhead does it is usually easy to spot when they want mating, they seem to show more visible signs that other breeds of rabbits say like lops. The doe will be seen rubbing her chin over things, carrying hay around, or even spraying while running around. Again during mating, they are equally frisky and often give the bucks quite a run around while teasing him at the same time, eventually they will get into the mating position and lift for the buck. As with all matings, it is best to let this happen at least twice before removing the doe from the bucks hutch, also if possible repeat this again a couple of hours later as this heightens the chance of a doe conceiving. Litter size in Lionheads is usually between 5-7, although larger litters are not unusual. The does usually prove to be easy birthers and very good mothers pulling a great mound of fur for their nest. Sometimes when a doe is bred from or during the resulting moult, she will lose some of her beautiful mane. sometimes this will grow back, but in some does it may take a couple of good moults before it re-grows, or you may simply (and sadly) be left with a short haired rabbit. Although these does will still produce beautiful litters with perfect manes as babies, theses babies are also likely to be carrying this trait, so if possible, it is best to breed from does who keep their manes, as this is somthing that still needs 'fixing' in the breed. Litters can be very mixed in many ways, firstly the colours seem not only to come in the regular (showable) colours, but also in the very unusual mixes and many colours that we have never even set eyes on before. These odd coloured babies usually are very eye catching, and it is very tempting to keep them, how ever, if you really are set on keeping Lionheads for show, then it is better just to keep colours that are already showable in other breeds of rabbits, as these are more likely to become standardised first. Colour is only half the problem here, the litters are very mixed, not only by colour, but also by type, body and the mane length and texture. As well as lionhead type rabbits in the litter, you may occasionally get either normal short coated rabbits and even occasionally some fully long coated rabbits, obviously to keep the quality of your line, you do not want to include these rabbits back |
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| Bengals must be four or more generations removed from their wild Asian Leopard Cat ancestor, and have three consecutive generations of Bengal to Bengal breeding in order to be eligible to be shown in T.I.C.A. (registration paperwork will reflect "SBT" in the registration number, which means the cat has "studbook status".) Currently, SBT Bengals can be shown in T.I.C.A., U.F.O., A.C.F.A., I.C.E. and a few other Cat Associations, some for Championship Titles. The early generation Bengals, which we refer to as "Foundation or Filial Bengals", such as F-1, F-2 or F-3 (one, two or three generations, respectively, removed from the Asian Leopard Cat) are best left to specialized breeders or properly prepared and informed owners who are equipped to take care of them. F-4's and beyond, or SBT's, are the true domestic Bengal. They usually make the best pets, and when they are carefully bred within highly selective and loving breeding programs, make delightfully affectionate, stunningly gorgeous family companions!! Domestic Bengals are no different than any other domestic cat when it comes to care and feeding. Female Bengals average from 7 to 11 pounds at maturity, while the more heavily muscled males can average from 11 to 18 pounds at maturity. Bengal owners delight in the intelligence, playfulness, and affectionate natures of their companions, and also love to talk about their athleticism, leaping ability and the dexterity with which they use their paws. Many Bengals also have an instinctive love of water, and have been known to climb in the shower or bathtub with their humans!! |
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| The fine bird food lines we carry are: | |
Roudy Bush |
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| The fine cat food lines we carry are: | |
OMH-Wellness |
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| The fine dog food lines we carry are: | |
OMH-Wellness |
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| The fine fish food lines we carry are: | |
Hikari |
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